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The last 6 posts

Friday, March 26th 2004, 7:12am

by mrwettech

Rainmaid Manufacturing in Denver, CO.

Thursday, March 25th 2004, 5:20pm

by aquamatic

Who makes them atleast?

Thursday, March 25th 2004, 1:12pm

by mrwettech

I don't want to redirect business from SprinklerWarehouse but, maybe they will consider stocking/listing that fitting. It works just like a PVC slip fix and works great on those annoying poly cuts/punctures too. Don't have to dig up a long length of poly just to make repairs. Also greatly reduces the risk of kinking the pipe putting together that last fitting. I will contact SW right now and ask if they will consider it. They sure work good.

Thursday, March 25th 2004, 8:22am

by drpete3

Where can you get a stretch coupler?

Wednesday, March 24th 2004, 2:23pm

by mrwettech

Would the analogy "don't throw the baby out with the bath water" work here? This sounds like a Toro Flo-Pro valve. Is the solenoid dead center on the valve and the top of the valve screws onto the valve body? If so, throw that baby out. You may try tightening it down when you have turned the water off and have relieved the water pressure but, the problem will come back again later on. If the top has stainless steel screws (4 visible and 2 under the solenoid) and the solenoid has 2 stainless steel screws mounting it to the valve it would be easy to repair unless there is damage to the valve housing itself like from freeze damage. It is rare that type of valve will start leaking from the valve unless it has been serviced lately. Has it? If so, the problem is most likely an o-ring issue. Most valve are 1" and are threaded. You should be able to tell by looking at the inlet/outlet sides of the valve. If you decide to replace it no matter what, it is not that hard to do. First dig around the valve then about 2' along the outlet line which is normally poly pipe. There is a product on the market called a "stretch coupler" for poly pipe and I have found them to be great on replacing valves. By using it, you are able to connect your outlet side first, then slide the valve into place, and it allows you to thread the valve into the manifold (PVC). Make sure you use teflon tape on the threads. Keep in mind that there is only a short range that it will stretch so cut accordingly. Also watch out for your wires when digging. Hope that helps.

Tuesday, March 23rd 2004, 5:43pm

by mavant

leaking controll valve

Hi, I have a control valve that is leaking from what appears to be the underside of the valve just below the electric selenoid. It is a toro valve and is at least 8 years old. I was looking at it trying to figure out how I would replace the thing and it looks like it will be a b-tch to do. From what I can tell I will have to cut the old one out and then somehow splice in some new PVC because there is not alot to work with. I have been trying to find some kind of illustrated instructions on replaceing a valve but haven't had any success yet. Also short of cutting the PVC whats the easiest way to find out if the valve is a 3/4" or a 1". Can one of you great and mighty oracles of knowledge please help out.