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The last 10 posts

Monday, June 26th 2006, 6:08am

by xpedient

Well it also depends on run off. If the area is at a slight angle, all the water is going to flood off the yard- in this situation shorter run times but more cycles are adequate. There are too many components in a given sprinkler zone to accurately estimate the pressure loss over a given amount of time. For residential properties it is usually not needed anyways. If one was going to install a 150 mile pipeline for oil or gas, the hydraulic calculations would then be needed..

Thursday, April 20th 2006, 4:42am

by tviles

I went to every other day and stayed at the same time interval. I did notice some burning the first day. Kansas clay, all rotors, all on slopes. We are having cool overnight temps with days only in the 70's so that is why I made the change so quickly. I want to go to watering every 3rd day soon. Since we are having a dry spring/summer they are going to put restrictions on soon. I used a rain gauge last night (first time)and recorded a ΒΌ inch for zone one. Will do the other zones soon.

Wednesday, April 19th 2006, 6:51pm

by Tom


are your zones sprays or rotors?
what kind of soil ?
are your zones on level ground or sloped?

Tuesday, April 18th 2006, 12:57pm

by Wet_Boots

Start with double the time, and adjust from there.

Tuesday, April 18th 2006, 12:12pm

by tviles

I too need to break a bad habit, I am watering everyday, 3 zones 24 minutes each. I want to at least go to every other day. So should I water every other day at 48 minutes per zone? Or just stay at 24 minutes per zone for every other day? Kansas dirt.

Monday, August 29th 2005, 6:48am

by c4char

The run time and cycling that Tom presented above makes sense to me. Cycling through the same zones for shorter periods of time instead of running it one time for x amount of minutes because of soil intake.

I never owned a sprinkler system and I am trying to decide between two estimates. Do all controllers accomodate this type of cycling of the same zone? Does the Rainbird ESP Modular? Does the Orbit Professional Control Center?

Friday, April 22nd 2005, 10:15am

by rsavage

Research Labs at the Texas A and M, Turf and Grass Division put out information that indicates established lawns should be watered deeply once a week if possible. Depending on soil types clay, sandy loam, or clay, the amount can vary from 3/4 inch to 1.5 inches per week. This also minimizes problems that can occur from more frequent waterings, a constant threat to the other of the plant material and bldgs from being exposed to unecessary moisture that can cause mildew, rot, fungus, algae, and so on. People with bedding plants and flowers such as roses integrated throughout the yard understand this.

Wednesday, March 10th 2004, 6:42am

by aquamatic

You need to determine what type of soil you have.

Sandy: Fast absorb rate. You can run longer times without to much run off
CLay/Hard Soil: Slow Absorb rate. Running Cycles of only 6 minutes at times is needed.

You need to consider all this before deciding on a controller. SOme controllers have only a couple of cycles, Others have more

As for static and dynamic: They are related but different. Your total dynamic is what you will need to focus on inorder to run certain heads and sprays.

Every component in a system has friction loss info. You need to subtract all these from your static to equal out to your dynamic. You also need to consider any elevation changes which is a simple formula .433 x elevation will either equal a minus or plu to your calculations. FLow going down= adds pressure Flow going up: decreases pressure

If you go to, they have a great "technicalManual" you can download that explains the physics of water hydraulics

Thursday, February 5th 2004, 5:50am

by H2O Concepts

To address the water scheduling question I would like to add some information. Every region has different limitations and restrictions on watering, but here in WA we aren't limited on our watering. Things to be considered when cycling the different zones are: infiltration rate for your soil, rooting depth, monthly gross irrigation required for your specific turf and region (10.27"/month in July at my location), available water capacity of your soil, and the precipitation rate of your sprinklers (GPM). Without this information, you are making a "best guess" for your water scheduling and run times. After you have been working in the industry for awhile, you get a pretty good feel for your run times. All of this information is available from your local Extension Office.

Saturday, January 24th 2004, 4:47am

by drpete3

Thanks for the info, I will take that into consideration