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The last 10 posts

Saturday, June 29th 2013, 3:53pm

by Wet_Boots

the brass-valve Imperial solenoids were described as "10 Watts" so figure you aren't worried about controller compatibility

Saturday, June 29th 2013, 3:04pm

by JonnyB

That does help. Thank you! So, a standard timer should be fine then, right?

Saturday, June 29th 2013, 2:45pm

by electrifiedmale

Well, I can't get a picture to copy and paste in this post. Not sure how the other guy above did it. I didn't notice before, but the sticker on the solenoid says 24 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3.5 Watt. I don't know tons about electricity (enough to get myself in trouble), but is there a way to figure out amps from the watts?
To calculate the amperage, divide watts by volts
3.5w/24v = .145a

To calculate watts, multiply volts by amps
24 x .145 = 3.5

Hope this helps

Saturday, June 29th 2013, 2:22pm

by JonnyB

Well, I can't get a picture to copy and paste in this post. Not sure how the other guy above did it. I didn't notice before, but the sticker on the solenoid says 24 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3.5 Watt. I don't know tons about electricity (enough to get myself in trouble), but is there a way to figure out amps from the watts?

Saturday, June 29th 2013, 10:45am

by Wet_Boots

Probably not, but to be certain, you might post a photo of one of the valves, showing the solenoid.

Saturday, June 29th 2013, 7:42am

by JonnyB

Imperial valves

I have an Imperial Valet timer I need to replace and I also have Imperial valves, however they are plastic ones not brass. Do the plastic Imperial valves also draw more current?

Tuesday, June 11th 2013, 11:38pm

by njitgrad

I have another plan for the entry point for the sprinkler wire cables. See
pics below of a box I bought from the electrical supply store. I will have to
mount in with four screws on my stucco wall and will have to drill a 1.5" hole
in the cinderblock to fit the thread connector so the box sits flush with the
wall. In the pics below you will notice I used 1/2" PVC. I will probably end up
using 3/4" PVC because as you can see, the 90 degree elbow will prove very
difficult to feed two sprinkler wire cables. I will use two identical boxes for
this job, one on the outside of the house and one on the inside of the
house.
















Tuesday, June 11th 2013, 6:32am

by njitgrad

Read a PVB owners manual, and you'll get up to speed. The devices you have imitate the appearance and function of a real PVB, purely in an attempt to save money. The savings nowadays is not so very much, compared to way back when. The outdoor item is entirely non-functional, installed as it is. Read some threads in the backflow section. A pro charges $200+ to correct this sort of thing.

I took a look at some of the information you mentioned and came to the conclusion that this is obviously a job for a pro. I wouldn't know one backflow device from another not to mention their applicability to my configuration. What puzzles me is why the company I have been using did not mention anything about the plumbing in the few times I've called them in the last two years. Time to find a better pro? Its obviously you know your stuff....if you are still in the business and are interested in a job, shoot me a PM with your contact info. If not interested can you recommend anyone in Passaic County? And is this something I should wait until the end of the season for, or is it recommended to upgrade immediately?

Monday, June 10th 2013, 10:58pm

by Wet_Boots

Read a PVB owners manual, and you'll get up to speed. The devices you have imitate the appearance and function of a real PVB, purely in an attempt to save money. The savings nowadays is not so very much, compared to way back when. The outdoor item is entirely non-functional, installed as it is. Read some threads in the backflow section. A pro charges $200+ to correct this sort of thing.

Monday, June 10th 2013, 10:33pm

by njitgrad

As for the bad plumbing, I already posted that what you have is a lame imitation of the more expensive Pressure Vacuum Breaker, which is code for when the backflow preventer can be a foot-and-a-half higher than the tallest pipe or sprinkler. You can always find a copy of the National Standard Plumbing Code at your library, and peruse it at your leisure. There is no grandfathering whatsoever of old non-compliant plumbing, even if the Crowned Heads of Europe signed off on it.

Understood. Can you tell me a little more about what would be involved? I'm talking Plumbing 101 here.

1) Will this job significantly change the appearance of my current setup?

2) Approximately how long would it take a pro to do this and what would a job like this cost?

3) Should I wait until I get my lines blown out at the end of the season?

4) Where would the PVB go, inside the house or outside? I am not familiar at all with the plumbing of an irrigation system...but I am far more experienced with the electrical aspect of it now. 8)

5) In the first photo below, what is that bronze-colored inverted-cone-shaped dial thingy on the outside of the house called and what is its purpose?

6) In the second photo below, what is that Y-shaped device in my basement after my shut-off valve and what is its purpose?

Thanks again.