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The last 4 posts

Wednesday, April 10th 2013, 5:19pm

by mrfixit

Yes, many times the valves with bad diaphragms will work with the bleeder screw but not via the controller.

Wednesday, April 10th 2013, 11:58am

by DHK

I tried another controller and new wire. They still did the same thing.

Would the diaphragms be bad if they still work manually?

Two of the valves look to be the same age and one looks newer (like a year or two old).

Wednesday, April 10th 2013, 12:38am

by mrfixit

I'm wondering if the lady didn't clean out the box because the valves weren't working in the first place.
What you've described wouldn't be caused by cleaning out a valve box.
Sometimes the controller wont open the solenoids but they still buzz. I know you said the plunger opens but sometimes the plunger will activate if you're holding the solenoid upside down but they wont when they're right side up. Or if you push on it a tad it'll open.
You could check the amps at the valves. Maybe hook up one set of wires to another controller and see what happens.
Could be that all three diaphragms are bad...

Tuesday, April 9th 2013, 11:01pm

by DHK

Toro 1.5" valves won't come on

I've got 3 Toro 1.5" valves that won't come on. There are only 3 in the system. The lady cleaned out the valve box because golfers filled it full of dirt. The valves worked previous to that so I thought it would be a loose or bad common/ground wire. The connections checked good and I even ran a new set of wires to check it but the valves only vibrate slightly and you can feel a small amount of water running through the valve but not enough to make them come on. The valves work manually (by using the bleeder or turning the solenoid). I took the solenoid off and the pin does retract when the timer comes on. I allowed the water to flow out of the small holes below the solenoid and it did not seem clogged. The voltage at the timer is 24 volts and 23 volts at the valves. It's confusing to me that all three act the same way. Any suggestions?