You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 2105 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 6 posts

Monday, February 11th 2013, 11:27am

by Wet_Boots

Spend some quality time with this website's troubleshooting tutorial, to build up your knowledge and allow you to post more useful questions.

A crack in the body of a ball valve may or may not impair its usefulness. The body is only the container that holds the other components in place as seen by this cut-away photo. You can see the space that surrounds the ball. That's what fills with water, leading to freeze damage.

Now stop wasting time with pointless concerns, and get out the multimeter and test the wiring.

Monday, February 11th 2013, 2:21am

by HoustonRN (Guest)

Ok seriously.... It's obvious I'm no sprinkler geek.

You don't need to be a mind reader but at least read!!! Can THIS CRACK CAUSE AN ISSUE WITH THE WHOLE SYSTEM????? THAT'S 1 question, not even 2 let alone 20!
That's all I'm asking?!?!?! Who needs to be a mind reader, just have high school level comprehension? CAN THIS CRACK affect the whole system?!?!?! Like I stated I want to be prepared for something more major when I call a repair guy if THIS CRACK is not the only thing wrong. Though I didn't point it out in clear sprinkler lingo, I DO NOT KNOW WHERE ZONE VALVES are, I figured the sprinkler GODS would understand when I said "I have no experience with sprinkler systems". But again ALL I'M ASKING IS ABOUT THIS CRACK THAT I TOOK A PICTURE OF! Simple yes or no! So let me be perfectly clear. I don't care about anything else that could be wrong, I just want to know about this crack. Can this crack cause the whole issue. If not, then I know there is something else.

Sunday, February 10th 2013, 11:05am

by Wet_Boots

We aren't mind readers, and playing twenty questions isn't on the menu. You haven't stated that you know where the zone valves are, or that you have performed resistance testing on the system wiring. You operate a zone valve manually (along with the master valve, if there is one) to see that full flow and pressure is still there.

If you don't know where the zone valves are, you have to locate each and every one, if you want to be capable of maintaining the system.

Resistance testing of the system wiring can be done at the controller, using a simple multimeter. Any resistance reading above 100 ohms signifies a problem.

Saturday, February 9th 2013, 11:45pm

by HoustonRN (Guest)

Well..... Since that didn't really answer my question, thanks for the smart ass unhelpful comment Captain Obvious! But my original question was could this crack affect my system from not working. Not about winterizing or how to prevent this from happening.

As I'm a first time home owner with a builder installed sprinkler system, no instruction manual was given to me regarding the PVD or any instructions as how to winterize the PVD. I had no previous experience with sprinkler systems before buying this house, so forgive me for not knowing about winterizing.

But since hindsight is 20/20 can someone answer my question. As Mr Wetboot aptly pointed out, with the inlet valve open would this crack affect my overall system from not working. I know the PVD has to be replaced, but I'm trying to determine if this is the cause of my entire system not working or something else. As the inlet valve is opened, obviously water sprays out of this crack, but once fully open there doesn't seem to be a noticeable leak from the crack. I'm asking if this crack causes enough of a pressure loss that it's preventing my whole system from working.

Again, I know the PVD needs to be replaced because I didn't winterize it. I'm trying to figure out if I need to be prepared to fix a larger problem with my system than just this broken PVD. Also, before Captain Obvious answers with more obvious statements. I have walked my property & there are no other broken pipes leaking or any other visible problems with the system. Oh and no there is no rain sensor. And, yes I have done the troubleshooting with the actual controller.


Saturday, February 9th 2013, 8:21pm

by Wet_Boots

No, the system isn't working because the PVB inlet valve is closed :D

Seriously, though, if you are doing your own maintenance, you find the manual for whatever backflow preventer you have, and follow instructions for winterizing. Had you done so, you would not be having to replace freeze-damaged parts.

Saturday, February 9th 2013, 1:44pm

by HoustonRN (Guest)


I have a rainbird controller and Febco 765-1 PVD. Controller seems to be working fine. I had a broken poppet that I replaced with a Blue Herron Bonnet & Poppet. Things seemed to work fine for a couple days now nothing. I later noticed this on the Febco 765-100 1inch PVD Backflow preventer. Could this be the issue of my sprinkler system not working.