You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 773 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 4 posts

Sunday, November 4th 2012, 8:45pm

by Wet_Boots

You can run one of the existing zones, and take a pressure reading at the house, followed by reading the flow at the outdoor water meter. That will define your water supply. If you want to do this precisely, you'll get a bubbler or two, and run them from a hose-end adapter, and see how much run time gives you how much spread of water.

Sunday, November 4th 2012, 7:58pm

by Samwise

Municipal pressure to the house is between 40 and 50 psi. Irrigation is tapped directly of the line to the house before the house shutoff valve (irrigation line has its own shutoff valve)



Soil has got a lot of clay in it but not totally. It is not caliche.

No vegetation under trees nor will there be.

Water soaks in within an hour after I flood them with the hose (usually running at 3-4 gpm)

Sunday, November 4th 2012, 6:55pm

by Wet_Boots

The size of the water supply is right now an unknown, and that affects everything else. Your soil is not known, and that would affect placement of heads.

In general, good modern bubblers will be precise in the flow of water they deliver, because they can have their own internal pressure regulation.

Are the trees without vegetation under the canopy?

Sunday, November 4th 2012, 3:51pm

by Samwise

Bubblers questions

I have 6 trees (approx 14 ft diam at drip line) that each require up to 200 gal of water per watering (every 2 weeks in summer and every 4 weeks in winter ) .. ( I live in Phoenix, hence the desert watering schedule)
All my other irrigation valves are centrally located and I want to keep the one for the trees in the same area as the others. That means the trees are about 130 feet from the valves, very flat level grade the whole way.
I want to use regular bubblers and flood them ( not drip unless someone can make a convincing arguemnt for it …and then tell me what I’ll need). They all have wells to their drip lines.

1) will I need to drop the line pressure (a regulator)?
2) what diam (and pressure?) size pvc do I need?
3) Should I keep them all on one valve split them and do three trees per valve?
4) how many bubblers per tree (optimal) ?
5) I am homeowner (not pro), a gal, and pretty handy with tools , but not super big and strong :-)

Thank you for any help you can give me