You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 2094 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 8 posts

Friday, September 28th 2012, 12:38pm

by Wet_Boots

By the way, since you did not use a mfr repair kit, you probably do not have any of the special food-grade silicone grease they include in the kits. Go to a plumbing supply and buy some. It must be food-grade silicone grease. Nothing else will do. This grease is liberally applied to the relief-valve O-ring after it's put in place on the assembly. A little extra smeared above and below the O-ring might help.

Wednesday, September 26th 2012, 5:05pm

by Wet_Boots

If the RPZ is located higher than the highest sprinkler, by about 2 feet, you could probably replace it with a pressure vacuum breaker. The PVB also meets the requirements for protecting against toxic backflow, but with the elevation requirement the RPZ doesn't need to comply with.

Wednesday, September 26th 2012, 4:30pm

by wallace1

I agree. If I hired someone to repair it, they would recommend replacing it and would have many years ago as well. If I replace the top to stop the drip, what would likely be the next problem? What is the downside of repairing it at this point?
Nothing is injected into the sprinkler system. Per the city inspector, a double check valve could also be used if it had an intermediate atmospheric vent.

I am retired and do all maintenance and repairs I can around the house. Have been able to do all the lawn sprinkler repairs and almost all appliance repairs.

Thanks for your replies.

Wednesday, September 26th 2012, 1:57pm

by Wet_Boots

In general, a 19-year-old backflow preventer doesn't owe anyone anything. You are kind of on your own here, as no professional will have ever bothered to try to work with a faulty part that's easily replaced.

Wednesday, September 26th 2012, 11:03am

by wallace1

The correct o-ring was installed on the diaphragm stem piston after cleaning up the bore in the valve cover. It still had a dripping leak out the vent. The bore the o-ring seals in has some pits. Tried to clean up bore with fine sandpaper. Still leaked.

The old seal is square. Watts says this is due to deformation over time but it looks to me like it started as a square ring rather than an o-ring. Looks like a square ring has a better chance of sealing.

Is there any practical way for me to repair the pitted 5/16 dia bore? The valve is approx. 19 yrs old. A new cover costs $80.

Tuesday, September 18th 2012, 10:37am

by wallace1

Was able to remove the diaphragm without damage using an exacto knife very carefully. Unfortunately, the o-ring dimensions I got from Watts were wrong. I put the top back on, following instructions. When I opened the inlet valve (with outlet valve closed) water gushed out the relief valve dump. I removed the top and tried again. This time, no water from the relief valve. Could this have been caused by air in the valve? I did not open any bleed screws either time. I did notice the top vent leak slowed to almost nothing while the sprinkler was running, but still dripped when the sprinkler was off.

So, called Watts and this time got dimensions for the diaphragm stem piston o-ring which agreed with the rough dimensions of the old o-ring. I'll try for the third time with a new o-ring. There was some green buildup in the o-ring bore which I tried to clean out but did not get all of it.

Sunday, September 16th 2012, 5:06pm

by Wet_Boots

If you really think you will damage or destroy the part when you remove it, make sure you have a replacement. Watts should have a parts kit for all the rubber in the 009.

Sunday, September 16th 2012, 1:18pm

by wallace1

Stuck Diaphragm on Watts Back Flow Preventer

I have a 1"" Watts 009 QT valve with a small dripping leak out the vent on top of the cover. I removed the valve top to replace the diaphragm stem O-ring but couldn't access it because the diaphragm was stuck to the the valve top around the OD where it seals.

Any suggestions on best way to remove the diaphragm from the top without damage to the diaphragm?