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The last 10 posts

Thursday, June 28th 2012, 7:53pm

by Central Irrigation

It doesn't matter as long as it's positioned before any device that could decrease flow while the pump is running. I.E. plugged filter, closed shutoff, or faulty sprinkler valve. My installs go...pump-spigot-relief valve-filter-shutoff valve. Spigot goes on top (same as yours) to make priming easier and before shutoff in case one wanted to use a garden hose off the spigot, they can close the shutoff and still be protected with the relief valve.
As for the relief valve...not a good idea. That relief valve is preset at 30psi. Most sprinkler systems run closer to 40psi operating pressure. So that valve would blow before your sprinklers even popped up. The adjustable relief valves I linked are more expensive because they are adjustable. I would look for one that is preset closer to 60-70psi. But, you have to be careful, because your system may be operating in this pressure range. Of course, the adjustable relief valve takes all the guess work out of it! :thumbup:

Thursday, June 28th 2012, 10:07am

by NABRIL

thanks again Central.

In my install I have spigot, shutoff valve (close by), and eventually filter. Dont I want the pressure relief valve to be the first thing exiting the pump, BEFORE the shutoff valve? Say I have the shutoff valve and the spigot accidentally closed. The pressure buildup could ruin my pump, right?


Does the relief valve HAVE to be the 530c poppet style? Or can it be something like this: http://www.pexuniverse.com/zurn-p1000a-30c-wilkins-3-4-pressure-relief-valve

It's about half the cost, and thus why I ask.

Tuesday, June 26th 2012, 9:42pm

by Central Irrigation

A 1.5" strainer will support the flow of a 1.5" line. I agree with boots, a 100 mesh screen is ideal for sprinkler systems.
As for assembly, I think you'll be suprised with the amt. of give you'll have once you make the cut. I would assemble the entire assembly prior to cutting to get your precise dimensions. FYI...the second shut off valve isn't necessary, I just like to have the shut off after the filter. Eliminating the second shut off will buy you some space also. It is, however, important that you position the pressure relief valve between your pump and the filter.

Tuesday, June 26th 2012, 8:29pm

by NABRIL

thanks for helping, but i dont understand what you are trying to say with your reply.

Tuesday, June 26th 2012, 3:25pm

by Wet_Boots

You'll never use all the water the pump can push out of the open pipe - at actual operating pressures, the flow will be much less

Tuesday, June 26th 2012, 1:07pm

by NABRIL

thank you Boots.



I should have asked this before...

I read that I should select my sediment filter based on GPM, and NOT my piping size. I've been planning and bought a 1.5" filter because my pipe is 1.5, the previous sentence has me thinking. Do I need to bother with measuring the GPM of my pump? And if so, how do I measure that? Turn on spigot and measure how much water comes out in 60 seconds? Is is that simple? Do I not bother?



thank you

Monday, June 25th 2012, 5:04pm

by Wet_Boots

Start over at the pump (keep the pump and the suction-side plumbing)

Monday, June 25th 2012, 2:14pm

by NABRIL

If you want the best performance, you take it down to the pump itself, and start over. Save nothing on the outlet side. A 60-mesh screen may not protect the zone valves. Better is 100 mesh.


thank you Boots

I am sorry, but I didnt understand your reply. Are you telling me to get a different pump? Or to remove my existing pipe down to the pipe (on the outlet side), and start over?

Monday, June 25th 2012, 2:11pm

by Wet_Boots

If you want the best performance, you take it down to the pump itself, and start over. Save nothing on the outlet side. A 60-mesh screen may not protect the zone valves. Better is 100 mesh.

Monday, June 25th 2012, 1:31pm

by NABRIL

i wasnt concerned about orienting it, I am concerned as to how to cut the existing pipe to add the strainer, and to do so correctly so that it is glued snug and tight. SInce I want to add 3 things: pressure valve, strainer, and another ball valve, I might as well cut after the existing valve, and replace the rest.



the mesh is 60.