You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 963 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 7 posts

Saturday, August 27th 2011, 4:55am

by Wet_Boots

As noted, modular controllers allow for the possibility of a faulty module, and modules can be replaced on their own.

Friday, August 26th 2011, 11:53pm

by Mitchgo

I've had several Rain bird ESPM's send constant power to valves before when plugged in.

don't know if it was a controller with/ without the mv error strap though

Friday, August 26th 2011, 11:08pm

by mrfixit

I saw this happen once on a Toro controller and it was a bad module.

Now I'm second guessing myself. This was 15 years ago. It was a Toro and it was a module but I'm not sure if it was on all the time or if it just came on when any valve came on.

Friday, August 26th 2011, 4:30pm

by Wet_Boots

a constantly-on zone is a fault on the main circuit board - if you had a computer that was similarly faulty, you could have a repair shop install a new motherboard - doesn't work that way with controllers. On the best "pro" equipment, one can swap out the front panel, with the mainboard inside. On consumer equipment bought at Home Depot, you just trash it and get a new controller.

And obviously, if you have an unused zone, switch over to it and let the faulty zone stay unconnected to the system.

Friday, August 26th 2011, 1:12pm

by SDoutdoors

How certain are you Wet Boots that the controller is shot? Because I had a Toro controller, do I have to replace it with a Toro controller or will any controller run the sprinklers?

Friday, August 26th 2011, 1:04pm

by Wet_Boots

Time for a new controller

Friday, August 26th 2011, 12:40pm

by SDoutdoors

One zone is on anytime the Controller is plugged in.

Please help! I'm far from a sprinkler guru, so any help would be appreciated. I've had the main water turned on to our sprinkler system all summer, but haven't run the sprinklers. I decided to run them this week so plugged in the main controller to the system. Zone 8 (of 12) came on even though it's timer is shut off. I took the solenoid out and tested it. The plunger sucks in when I plug in the controller like it's supposed to. Unfortunately, it stays on anytime the controller is plugged in. The other zones run like they should, but with less pressure since zone 8 is always on. I've seen posts talking about zones staying on because of some blockage in the diaphram, but if that were the case here, zone 8 would be on anytime the water is turned on to the system, but it's not. The only time it comes on is when the main system is plugged into power. BTW, it's a Toro system.
Any ideas?
Thanks.