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The last 8 posts

Monday, August 1st 2011, 3:05pm

by Central Irrigation

98% of the time an entire gut swap will eliminate a weeping problem. There is the rare 2% in which the base of the valve will have a hairline fracture or chip missing where the diaphragm seats to the base. Even in Minnesota where valves endure extreme temperature change from season to season, this is rare. But I have seen it. You're on the right track with your problem solving. Diaphragm and selonoid is always step 1. You have to make certain that the internals of the main and valve are completely void of debris, sand, or dirt or a new diaphragm and selonoid will give the same results as the old. Are you absolutely positive that there is no possible way for dirt to enter the main line (leaks, etc)?



I would start by disassembling the valve again and pay close attention to sand, or dirt laying in the bottom of the valve. Since you'll have it open again, run your fingernail over the the plastic ring in which the diaphragm would seat to the base, as well as inside the center wall of this ring. Any catch you feel, could be a small crack. If you do feel a catch replace the valve. I'm gonna go on record as saying that these valves are more than likely at the end of your mainline or at the lowest point of your mainline?!



Voltage could cause a weeping valve also. A hot post is described as a zone terminal in which an amt of voltage is allowed to pass to the valve while the controller is off. I have seen some hot posts that allowed enough voltage to actually activate a valve. Using a multimeter, check voltage across the zone terminal and common post at the controller. Anything over 5 volts could cause this problem, but unlikely. Make sure the controller is set to OFF to perform the test.



I have also seen in rare circumstances a home that is at the end of a city water supply line in which all the debris collected in their system. A flush point at the end of the main line and a mesh in line filter is the best we could do for them.



A main line pressure test should be done in order to determine if there are any other leaks in your main and valves.

Monday, August 1st 2011, 12:50pm

by hi.todd

Sand is not your friend. Sand will make you feel just like you do now.

May be you need to install a sand separator or filter.

:thumbsup:

Sunday, July 31st 2011, 4:08pm

by cdrugly

Trust me, if I could afford someone to fix this, I would. But alas, such is not the case.

I cut the center out of a spare diaphragm I had laying around so I could flush the system without having to remove the entire valve body. It worked as expected, but did not fix my problem. The heads still weep.

Could this be the result of an electrical problem? I know the main wire for zone 2 is cut. Could some kind of short cause this behavior?

Sunday, July 31st 2011, 11:43am

by Mitchgo

Well if you want to save the hassle of your self doing it.

Hire a irrigation company in to do it for you

A 2 zone manifold- after it's dug up is 45-1 hour tops in plumbing


If you cut into the diaphram, it will just stay open (stuck open) .. So don't do that

Sunday, July 31st 2011, 10:31am

by cdrugly

The valves weep 24/7. And there is no master control valve. There's only the backflow preventer at the street. This is a system I inherited and I'm just now figuring out the issues.

I dug out the box because I thought maybe something was causing the valves to twist and unseat the diaphragm. So far, the results are the same.

Replacing the valves will be a massive undertaking. There are 2 valves leaking in exactly the same way in a box with a spigot. All of it will have to be replaced at the same time and I want to exhaust all possibilities before I have to tear out the entire thing. If I pull the whole thing out, spend all Saturday rebuilding it, only to find out that it didn't work... I don't think I would be able to go on living.

To that end, I am going to cut out the center of a diaphragm and install it. That should allow the water to flow freely without leaking at the valve, allowing me to flush out the system. I know for a fact there is a small amount of sand in the system, but that's about it. I'm going to run and get some fittings and I'll report back.

Saturday, July 30th 2011, 8:57pm

by Mitchgo

Our policy on a stuck valve:

We cut the valve out, install several fittings and pipe and flush then line for 5-10 minutes.
Then we install a new valve-- we will gut swap and a quick flush for a quick fix, but state on the invoice basically it's not our fault if it sticks again and recommend the first a full flush.

Who knows how much debris is in the line fauling up your valves.


I've had a couple experiences with the dvf weaping and after gut swapping it was still weaping. After closer inspection I noticed the body styles were slightly different. I'm not sure if this is the cause of the weaping but after fully taking off the valve and fully replacing it, it has solved the issue.

Saturday, July 30th 2011, 5:56pm

by Wet_Boots

Is the weeping 24/7? Is there a master valve?

Saturday, July 30th 2011, 4:54pm

by cdrugly

Rain Bird DV 100 won't shut off... at my wits end

Ive got 2 valves that just will not shut down completely. The lower heads on these two lines slowly weep all the time. I've done everything I can think of to stop it:

1. Replaced the solenoid (twice)
2. Replaced the diaphragm (twice)
3. Replaced the upper valve assembly
4. Inspected for cracks
5. Ensured voltage was 0
6. Flushed the system
7. Cleaned out all debris

The sprinklers all work and the system is fine. It's just the weeping. Nothing I do seems to affect it at all.

HELP!