You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 422 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Tuesday, June 25th 2013, 3:52pm

by PennyInHeels

"FUS" from irritrol.com

from http://www.irritrol.com/pdf/faq_raindial.pdf



What does the blinking FUS code mean?
A. - The controller may have
detected an overload of the
amperage allowed (For example, a
shorted solenoid, a shorted wiring
or a high end surge or spike).
How to reset the FUS code on a
Rain Dial Controller?
If the “FUS” warning does not go
away after pressing either the Plus
(+) or Minus (-) Buttons, follow the
instructions below:
1. While the controller is
power-up, disconnect the
“Ribbon Cable” from the socket on the terminal board.
2. Disconnect the 9 volt battery.
3. Set the “PROGRAM” switch to “B”
4. Set the “MODE” Switch to Set Program (Middle) position between “OFF &
RUN”.
5. Hold down the “MANUAL” button while reconnecting the ribbon cable.
6. Reset Current Time.

Sunday, May 12th 2013, 1:28am

by tvu

Much appreciated. I will try it out tomorrow.
Can you clarify the "reset"? I've looked through the manual - and there is only an option for factory reset?
Or removing the battery, and the AC plug as well?


Also, I was able to test continuity on the fuse, and visual inspection looks to be intact.

Friday, May 10th 2013, 7:47pm

by mrfixit

It could be a bad solenoid on the master valve as well.
Then again it could be any solenoid if your fuse is already blown.
Install a new fuse or reset the controller. Then run all the stations. See which valve gives you the initial fuse warning.
It could be crossed wires.

Friday, May 10th 2013, 7:41pm

by Central Irrigation

The FUS on all zones, is usually indicative of a common wire problem. Easy test is to disconnect the common wire from it's terminal and attempt to manually run the zones from the controller. If it works, you know you're dealing with a common wire issue. If it doesn't, disconnect all zone wiring in the controller and attempt again. It is of great importance that you reset the controller after each FUS display, before attempting another test. A multimeter would be quicker, however.

Friday, May 10th 2013, 6:26pm

by tvu

Sorry to resurrect an old thread - to the original poster - did you ever find the solution? I am just encountering the same issue - FUS on all zones.

Sunday, July 24th 2011, 4:03pm

by pass1

Use your ohm meter and test for resistance in each valve. disconnect each zone wire from the controller along with the common and read each valves resistance. This should tell you something.

Sunday, July 24th 2011, 3:53pm

by WHomeowner

Unfortunately for me, the FUS reading is on all zones. I reset the controller and set each zone for 1 mintue, and every time the FUS message popped up after trying to manually run the zone. The first time that I noticed the FUS message all the zone numbers where listed above the message.

Sunday, July 24th 2011, 3:30pm

by pass1

On Irritrol controllers "fus" generally means you have a shorted solenoid and or a bad splice connection. The controller will read on the display something like "fus1" or "fus2" indicating which zone the problem is on. Try resetting the controller to remove the "fus " signal on the display, then set each zone for 1 minute and start the program. When it comes to the bad zone it will show "fus". The better way is to just put a ohm meter on each zone wire and check for resistance. Normal is around 20-60 ohms. If you have a master valve, don't forget to check that also

Sunday, July 24th 2011, 2:53pm

by WHomeowner

Thanks for your reply.

I did try and use an MDL fuse to replace the ADL fuse. Not sure if that makes a difference. Also, the original ADL "blown" fuse didn't show any sign of damage. Not sure if it is supposed to. I am going to try and get the exact ADL fuse to replace the old one to see if that works.

I already purchased the Multimeter expecting that I might need it.

If anyone has any additional thoughts on what the issue might be, I would appreciate it.

Sunday, July 24th 2011, 2:28pm

by servicetechMA

There must be another fuse somwhere maybe and or you used a bad NEW fuse.Thats all I can think of. Unless the reason the fuse blew is because of a lightning strike and everything is completely fried,possible not probable though. It might just be the controller being FUSsy lol,in which case do a reset and try a different fuse. Im sure you know that the fuse has to be connected all the way through the sight glass. The wire that is THE FUSE,cant be broken in the middle. Good luck after you check that fuse post back if it doesnt work still. Then we will tell you how to do some fun electrical testing,I enjoy it lol. Its not to hard to do either, but you will need a multimeter a great investment regardless wheather you use it now or not.