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The last 10 posts

Tuesday, July 12th 2011, 4:38pm

by Wet_Boots

You could install a Wilkins BR4 pressure reducer UPSTREAM of the RPZ, and gain a benefit that way.

Tuesday, July 12th 2011, 3:31pm

by Frankiebee

Yep, went to the city engineering dept. and dashed all hopes of this "One-Zone" sprinkler system. Separate meter plus impact fee plus tap fee would have set me back $1500... all before even laying one irrigation pipe.



I am now into my second reading of the irrigation tutorial and understanding more and more with every reading. And, after ya'lls superb comments, I have decided to go with a standard system plugged into the house supply before it gets to the house's PRV. The city says I have about 120 psi at and after the 5/8" meter and cautioned me not to exceed 12gpm (this forum answered my questions as to "why not" so I will also design around that flow).



So, after a $20 permit I will have a plumber tee off the main line to the house, install the city's required RPV back flow and a hose bib (bib for an accurate measure of flow and pressure avaliable for irrigation). My next question is: Should I have the plumber install a pressure reducer before or after the hose bib? In the attached sketch I have the PRV after the hose bib. WWWBD? .....What would Wet Boots do?
Frankiebee has attached the following file:
  • POC sm.JPG (19.11 kB - 6 times downloaded - Last download: Jul 15th 2011, 3:49pm)

Sunday, June 26th 2011, 8:14pm

by Wet_Boots

Why not find out the actual street pressure before you go nuts with taps and meters? Many sprinkler systems run without the supply fed through a reducing valve, as they are tapped upstream of a PRV. You may already have all the supply you really need.

Sunday, June 26th 2011, 11:37am

by Frankiebee


Grey said... "In short you want to find out your static pressure (at the outside bib for example), your flow rate, sizes of your water supply line, water meter. After some calculations you would get a value of dynamic pressure available for sprinklers. That pressure would determine maximum spacing of your sprinkler heads and what type of sprinklers to use, i.e. spray heads or rotors covering areas."

Yeah, done that, got very miserable results for what I "want" because my static pressure at the hose bib is regulated by the pressure valve supplying the whole house. That pressure has to remain below 50 psi or else I get water hammer at the farthest faucet (poor plumbing design by the builder X( ). One would think that 50psi is a good starting point but I only get 5.5 gpm (avg of three 5-gallon bucket tests) from the hose-bib closest to the water meter.
I have just finished the yard measurements and the next step will be to have a separate meter installed (largest supply line diameter that the city will allow for residential -- don't know, will find out). Then I can do the measurements using as much pressure as the city will give and as much gpm that the meter will pass.
I am stuck on building a system with the least amount of zones as possible... I am a stubborn man.


Wednesday, June 22nd 2011, 8:03pm

by Wet_Boots

A large meter also needs a large connection with the main in the street, and maybe there is a steep price to pay to get it. Up north, with deeper mains and freeze concerns, a separate tap and meter for sprinklers is well over a thousand dollars.

Wednesday, June 22nd 2011, 2:14pm

by Frankiebee

Thanks Wetboots for the idea to look for better/best heads. At the Hunter website for those MP sprayers you mentioned I found the Mack-daddy head "The I-90" capable of throwing water out to a 90ft radius and made for "commercial" applications. Wonder if my neighbor two yards over would mind me watering his yard??? ;)

Our city water will take off the sewage charge on the bill for a meter installed for irrigation only, so a small savings there. My whole plan will hinge on the largest meter the city will allow me to install and from there what the actual PSI and GMP is from that meter -- I have no idea yet what they offer, I plan on contacting them before I start the actual preliminary plan.

I did a "standard" sprinkler system at a house I once owned in JAX Fla. It was easy and you all are right... the paper plan changes quickly when you have a gas powered trench digging machine fired up. :thumbup:

Thanks again, keep some of those ideas flowing.

Wednesday, June 22nd 2011, 10:04am

by Wet_Boots

I've done systems like that, with mammoth overkill capabilities, and in my opinion, they are more praiseworthy in concept than in reality.
Thanks. About how much more (A guesstamate in percentage) did it cost over a "run of the mill" system?
It will mostly depend on your city water supplier. Big Water takes a separate tap and a larger meter. Some of that expense may come back if the separate meter allows for paying lower sewerage (sometimes, sewerage fees come as a multiple of the meter reading)

I would look at the possibility of installing a system of MP Rotators, which will cover a large area per zone, and will fit the landscape better than conventional rotors.

Wednesday, June 22nd 2011, 9:34am

by wsommariva

I just completed my own install although small. Big learning curve and I made a few mistakes that needed adjustments.

But not difficult. Go to the site recommended above. PSI and GPM will tell you what you need to install. I used flexible PE and that makes it much easier than PVC. You may need a city permit.

Very satisfyong job once completed. But as Wetboots said what looks good on paper may not translkate to the actual job. So expect adjustmnets.

Good luck.

Wednesday, June 22nd 2011, 6:56am

by Frankiebee

I've done systems like that, with mammoth overkill capabilities, and in my opinion, they are more praiseworthy in concept than in reality.
Thanks. About how much more (A guesstamate in percentage) did it cost over a "run of the mill" system?

Tuesday, June 21st 2011, 6:47pm

by Wet_Boots

I've done systems like that, with mammoth overkill capabilities, and in my opinion, they are more praiseworthy in concept than in reality.