SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

As it turns out, my Hunter Pro-C (PCC series) is NOT expandable. Apparently the PCC series is configured for either 6, 9, 12 or 15 zones, and the literature says that this series isn't expandable. So, while I would rather expand the controller for $23, and then use an unused zone to activate the pump, doesn't look like I can. I could replace the complete controller, or just add the external timer switch for the pump.

I appreciate the amount of effort you are putting into this.

If you are going this route.. You might as well go with your first idea. The controller is already a timer so you don't need a second one. Purchase another module so you can get a zone 7 with no actual valve. Then add time to this zone so you can run your hose bib.

You really don't want more then a couple minutes of run time on the pump with out flow. It heats up quick and can blow things up.

My initial idea's were to save you the hassle of running to the controller to turn on the hose bib.. but if your okay with this by all means go fo it. I deal with a lot of clients with 1-2 acre lots with master valves and hose bibs far away from there house . We install the switch setup next to the hose bib so they don't have to walk wayyy back to the controller to turn it on.

Thanks for the input. After reading your messages, and doing lots more web reading, here's what I think I'm going to do. In the garage, next to the controller, I'm going to add an Intermatic, spring wound, 30 minute timer switch. (Your comment about a timer made sense.) I'll run a wire from the 24 VAC input terminal on the controller (yellow wire) to my switch, and then run a return wire from the switch to the MV/PMP lug on the controller. Here's a rough picture (probably way too big).

So, I'll connect a hose to the hose bib at the well. Open the faucet. Go to the garage, and turn my switch for 10 - 30 minutes, which will send 24 VAC to the PSR, which will activate the pump for a defined period of time. I can water the vegetable garden and roses. Pump will either shut off due to time expiring, or me going back to garage and setting the timer to off.

See any issues here? Thanks, mike

Well it's a relay. You have your supply 120/240 inlet , supply 120/240 outlet to the pump, and the irrigation wire

When the controller sends 24v to the relay ( 1 of the incoming) . This tells the relay to switch on to 120/240 volts to crank on the pump

Is the wiring near the pump hard wired in? Or is there a plug nearby?

Basically it's

2 -14AWG wires> Install these into the 24V supply into the controller> Run wire near to hose bib> Install a 4x4x5' treated post> Install a on/ off weatherproof electrical switch > Continue wire run into the inlet sides of the relay. Although you don't have too I recommend to install this into a conduit because it's a always on hot line.

If this doesn't make sense yet, please don't attempt to do this.

Another way- If you have a plug near the relay box. Just install a 120/240 plug > run a pigtail and or 120/240 rated wire through conduit> Install treated post with a weatherproof electrical on/off switch> Continue run to outlet side of relay ( Where the 120/240 is)

Make sure you have the circuit breaker off if your doing electrical work.

Again, IF THIS DOES NOT MAKE SENSE DON'T DO IT. PLEASE HAVE A PROFESSIONAL DO THIS THEN.

Note: You can't leave it on, if you do you will blow up your pump and cause other electrical problems if the controller is turned on. If you have a problem forgetting things, possibly think about some sort of timer involved to auto-shut off after a while

Something I'm not completely clear about. In my Hunter controller in the garage, I see the 2 wires going to the Hunter pump relay switch. When a sprinkler zone kicks on, what's happening on the two lines going to the pump relay switch.
1) Shorting the two wires together to make a loop circuit going to the relay??
2) Applying voltage to the line going to the relay?

If I understand your response, you're suggesting installing an outdoor rated switch near the pump, by connecting extension lines from the two lines going to the relay switch. Essentially adding another switch in parallel?

mike

That's one way of doing it, not the best though.

The better way is to run 2 wires from the 2 hot 24v ports and run wire all the way to the relay switch ( or next to your hose bib) Install a 4/4 treated post and on this post install a on/ off electrical outside rated switch, then loop back to the relay switch. Be sure to run conduit because this is a hot wire.

Then when you turn the switch it will kick the relay on in turn the pump.

I've never done this for a pump system, but for master valves which is the same concept.

Wetboots may not approve of this? Any other way boots?

Here's what I have.
1) A well in my yard with a pump.
2) Connected to a Hunter Pump Start Relay.
3) Connected to a Hunter Pro-C installed in my garage. It has 6 sprinkler zones connected to it, and it appears that this is the maximum zones as it is currently configured.
4) Next to my pump, I have a faucet, used to hook a compressor to blow water out pre-winter, but also apparently can have water coming from this valve when the pump start relay is engaged.

My question; I want to hook a hose to the faucet next to the pump. But I'm not sure how to activate the pump. The switch on the pump itself is on, but no water comes out, unless I turn on one of the sprinkler zones at the controller. I don't see anything I can use to activate the pump is the pump start relay box. So my question is do I need to add another module to the Hunter controller, and then use, say station 7, with no sprinkler valve connected, to activate the pump, so I can get water to flow from the faucet? If not this, what is the correct way to get water to flow from this pump faucet, without turning on a sprinkler zone?

Thanks!