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The last 10 posts

Friday, March 25th 2011, 4:33pm

by larbec

I thought I would report back. I had two bad diaphragms and I found a bad solenoid valve today so I will replace it tomorrow when the irrigation place opens. Thanks for all the help!!!

Thursday, March 24th 2011, 7:48am

by Wet_Boots

The Toro valve is repairable, and the other valve should be the same. If you take inventory of the entire system, you may find only one or two valves that are not identical to the others. In those cases, it sometimes simplifies life to install a replacement that makes all your zone valves of one (reliable and repairable) model.

Wednesday, March 23rd 2011, 7:58am

by larbec

thanks

I appreciate it Mithgo, I feel the same but wanted another opinion.

Wednesday, March 23rd 2011, 12:38am

by Mitchgo

I personally in your situation i would just replace the diaphram.. Though I don't like those kind of valves...

There isn't enough spacing between the pipes to rebuild the valve quickly and easily. You could cut the outlet side of the valve and spin the valve off from the thread, then just rebuild the outlet side.. Other than that your stuck with rebuilding the tee prior, the master valve and so on.

Tuesday, March 22nd 2011, 9:30pm

by larbec

Thanks, I called two places here in town and one has it in stock ($20) and the other (Ewing) is telling me I should replace the entire valve which after looking at the set up it could be done with some more digging. Of course, changing the diaphragm would be the easiest.

If this was yours, which route would you go?
larbec has attached the following file:
  • bad diaphram.jpg (17.94 kB - 37 times downloaded - Last download: Aug 9th 2012, 10:52am)

Tuesday, March 22nd 2011, 8:36pm

by Mitchgo

If the diaphram is slit, then this is the reason for the zone to be stuck on

The easier thing would be to replace the diaphram. However it may be hard to find a repair kit.

Try to get the make and model of that valve and do a online search to see if there are any repair kits.

You can also take it to your local irrigation supply store ( Such as john deere landscapes, ewing and many more ) and see if they can help you out

If you feel you can cut out the valve and replace it with relative ease then this may be the better and quicker choice

Good luck!

Tuesday, March 22nd 2011, 3:32pm

by larbec

main valve

[attach]44[/attach][attach]44[/attach]I think I found the issue, one of the valves that seemed to be vibrating has a slit in the diaphragm. Could this be the issue? Would you replace the diaphragm or the entire valve?
larbec has attached the following file:

Tuesday, March 22nd 2011, 12:05am

by Mitchgo

Like I said your issue at the moment isn't electrical, the valve is physically stuck on .

The way you explain it makes it seem like there is a master valve, you can check on this by looking at the wiring at the controller and if you see a wire running into the MV/ Pump port then you have a master valve

The way Your system works


Irrigation Shut off >>> Electronic Master Valve>> Main Line Pipe branching to valves > Valves ( Irrigating 1 zone per valve)

When the controller is OFF, the Master valve is turned off. Thus preventing water from flowing through the main line. When you turn the controller on, the master valve turns on and water starts flowing through the main line to the specified zone you turned on. Your problem is that you have a zone that is stuck on physically more then likely from debris ( I see the slip fix on the master valve Which is Hunter) this indicates a repair has been done on this valve.

If you hear water running through the valve on the other side of the driveway then more then likely this is the fouled up valve that is stuck on. Like I say this is not electrical.. Your can manually turn on the master valve by turning the solenoid on top 1/4 turn , if that zone with the 4 heads come on then now you know this is the stuck zone

The valve should probably be just replaced and the main line flushed to help prevent further valves from being damaged.

A normal ohm range of a solenoid is 20-60 though they can work outside this perimeter . You can do this by touching the common port and the zone port . Like I say though, your issue isn't electrical

Monday, March 21st 2011, 10:21pm

by larbec

I do have a fluke 87 so I am good to go. I think I found all my valves unless one is hidden. The one on the opposite side of the driveway that I can hear vibrate....I cut one of the wires and the heads still operated. I do have a blue wire that goes no where so I am sure it needs to be hooked up to something or maybe not because I have a cut wire on each side of the driveway. Either the last home owner cut them and they do nothing or they go some where.

Anyway, how do I ohm out the valves? I will assume I do this from the control box inside my garage....I actually enjoy troubleshooting

I should have a master valve "on" in addition to the stuck valve right?
The reason I am asking is I can see and hear a smaller valve without
the dip stick (black wires picture above) on when I turn on the controller.

If you look at the picture above the valve on top is the one that has full flow and I can hear. There is a valve on the other side of the drive about 30 feet that I can hear water running but that is the one I disconnected. I may be hearing water running through the PVC

Monday, March 21st 2011, 8:04am

by Wet_Boots

If no one but yourself is going to service the system, you need a multimeter to check voltages and wiring resistance.