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The last 8 posts

Friday, March 18th 2011, 12:38pm

by Wet_Boots

the Netafim website should have some tech info so you can see if feeding it from the end would be a problem. One reason to go with discrete emitters is to make full use of a separate zone's available flow, which the emitter tubing will probably not do.. This is important if you have a limited time window for your watering.

Friday, March 18th 2011, 5:33am

by lungs414@yahoo.com (Guest)

Thanks for the advice guys, I plan on going to my local john deere landscape supplier Saturday. I have done some irrgation work at my house in the past. Last year I added two zones and replaced numerous faulty Hunter PGP rotors. I spoke to a rep from Netafim yesterday and she was very helpful, and even suggested running the 3/4 " main supply to the midpoint and teeing off in both directions to even out the supply to the trees. Like the old expression there is more than 1 way to skin a cat.
Thanks again
Rich

Thursday, March 17th 2011, 10:23pm

by Mitchgo

Run down to your local irrigation supply store, explain to them what you are doing and have them show you how to connect netafim fittings together. It's really easy

Thursday, March 17th 2011, 10:21pm

by Mitchgo

The link you gave is exactly the same stuff just a different brand.. From memory in my experience the hunter drip techline is a little less flexible and a little more prone to kinking. I could be wrong though.. If it kinks you just take channel locks and squeeze the kink out.

That's exactly what I mean with the 3/4" line. It's not the most important thing in the world, but if it's easy for you then do it. What will happen with a single source of water into the netafim ( Even tho the emitters have even DU) after a few years you will see some of the tree's growing taller then the other. If you have water entering both ends of the dripline this will help on evenly dispersing water from the emitters.

As far as fittings go for the netafim, All you really need is a coupler or 2 to connect the rolls together. And maybe a few male adapater's for the poly to netafim hook ups

Netafim can be mulched, and as boots said you can have direct drip application install to each tree.. This is more expensive and more prone to issues/ higher maintence. Though it's a better way to water.

The netafim you just roll it out and every few fee put a staple down every few feet to hold it in place.

Thursday, March 17th 2011, 3:54pm

by Wet_Boots

If the trees are to be planted in bare ground that will be heavily mulched, then you can use the emitter tubing or even get fancy and use discrete emitters plugged into distribution tubing, which is more elaborate and more expensive, but which does give you a greater choice of water delivery rates, along with the ability to visually confirm the operation of each emitter.

Thursday, March 17th 2011, 5:35am

by lungs414@yahoo.com (Guest)

A little confused...

Spacing in each row will be 8 feet, giving the overall appearance of 4 feet when both rows are planted.

You wrote "If you can extend the 3/4" line to the other side of the of the tree's (200' away) and connect the line to both end points to help on even distribution uniformity"

Do you mean extend the 3/4 inch poly for 200 feet and tee in the netafilm at the beginning and the end of the 200 foot zone because that can be easily done.
As for the netafilm I have to put in the fittings where I plant the trees correct? Because I was looking at a different type of product that seems very similar but may be easier, but not sure if it would be cheaper. Have you ever used this Hunter product? http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Hunter-Irrigation-Landscape-Drip-Line-p/PLD-10-12-250.htm it might be the same thing.
Thanks for your help.
Rich

Wednesday, March 16th 2011, 10:01pm

by Mitchgo

Direct application drip is truly one of the best styles of watering, however it's one of the most problematic and higher maintence.

How far spacing will the zig zags be?

I would recommend Netafim
It's a soaker line that has an emitter every 12" that will evenly disperse water. They usually come in rolls of 100' and 300' sold at your local Irrigation supply store ( Not Lowes / home depot) . Pick up some landscape staples, some netafim barbed fittings and your set. There are several ways to install netafim but for a border line you can either run a single line or loop the line weaving in and out of the plants to have a double row criss crossing .

If you can extend the 3/4" line to the other side of the of the tree's (200' away) and connect the line to both end points to help on even distribution uniformity

Wednesday, March 16th 2011, 3:00pm

by lungs414@yahoo.com (Guest)

System design question

I currently have an irrigation system which I need to add 1 zone to. It will be for drip irrig. to service 200 feet of property line trees. In the fall I prepped the area by running about 60 feet of3/4 inch polypipe to one end of the proposed tree bed. I plan on planting about 40 deodara cedars in a zig zag/shadow box pattern. I need help designing this zone to service these new trees which will be on average about 8 feet tall.
Question
1. Should I run a 3/4 " line down the center and attach the drip line with the emitters off of this line to each tree? Do I need to step down to 1/2 inch pipe at some point to maintain pressure ?

2. Is there a better way to do this?

3. What else do I need ?

Thanks
Rich