You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 2691 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Thursday, February 3rd 2011, 9:13am

by dwkendgardner

Nothing to report as of yet...I did a visual check of the valves, checked that the wiring was still in good shape, and ran zone 6 several ran fine and did not trigger the other zones when it shut off. I then decided to set the program to let it run a normal cycle the other day. It ran smoothly. Thought to give it another day and run it again...same result. It has now run several times consecutively without issue, and I really haven't done anything major to the valves, other than, as mentioned, just checking wiring and making sure that there are no obvious faults with the valves.

So, as of right now, I'm not sure that I am going to do anything else quite yet...maybe the old adage is appropriate right now...that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If the triggering does return, I will first try the wiring that you suggested, and then update you here with my findings.

I've got to say...if this issue does not start doing it again, that this is one of the strangest things I have seen. I am hopeful that we can put this one to bed, but will come back and continue this thread should I see it return. I thank you all for your input and expertise.

Friday, January 28th 2011, 11:29am

by Central Irrigation

You shouldn't need to do any digging out in the lawn. You've stated that zone 6 is comprised of two valves that are wired seperately in the field, but wired together at the controller. If this is correct, there is no need to do any digging. Disconnect one of zone 6's wire (the wire that controls the 6 heads). You will still have the 10 operational heads. Run the system a few times to see if the split zone 6 still tries to "activate" the other zones. Report back with your findings.

Thursday, January 27th 2011, 5:30pm

by dwkendgardner

I'm going to estimate that Zone 6 controls about 16 valve leading to about 6 and the other to about 10. I have other zones that have more heads than that. Unfortunately, I can't split that zone without adding one of these valves to another zone that is already occupied by other valves. (I have no free zones on the controller)

If the bottom line is that there too many heads in the entire area (in this and other zones), then short of adding a whole new controller and cutting and running new lines, it sounds like I could have ongoing problems. The last thing I want to do is to start unearthing lawn and plants to run new lines, but if that is the only solution...

Thursday, January 27th 2011, 4:47pm

by Central Irrigation

I think what these guys are getting at, is that there are too many heads on your zone 6. Too many heads...too much water...causes water hammer. Water hammer can cause problems to irrigation parts (valves especially). How many heads are on zone 6? How many heads are on the other zones? Try splitting zone 6 back into seperate zones and see if that helps.

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 9:00pm

by dwkendgardner

No...each post at the timer still has only one wire. The controller can actually handle up to 9 zones...we are using 8 of them.
Just ran the complete program again, and it reverted to triggering again at the conclusion of Zone 6's cycle. I went over to where the valves are while Zone 7 ran, and I could see the valve that was trying to trigger. I manually rotated the Solenoid to and fro once, and the triggering stopped. Just a bad valve?

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 7:21pm

by hi.todd

I read from your first post. You said you had an 8 zone system. Does that mean your timer can handle 8 zones, but 1 of the posts at the timer has 2 wires on it? This would really mean you had a 9 Zone system with an 8 zone timer. This is a practiced used by people taking the short cut. The 8 zone timer is usually 30 to 40 dollars cheaper than the 9 zone clock.

Just a shot in the wind after reading the later posts. If this is the case, like the earlier posts said "time to correct the problem". New timer 9 Zone out door or indoor.
Good luck :thumbup:

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 6:29pm

by dwkendgardner

Two zones aren't combined, I have two valves wired to the same zone on the controller. I believe that is a fairly common practice, or at least I've heard it being done by others.

If that is what you are questioning, I guess the answer is that the zone was split to be handled by two valves to handle the number of sprinklers. It is for two separate lawn areas on either end of the back yard.

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 12:34pm

by Wet_Boots

Why would two zones have been combined in the first place? Maybe that was an error that needs to be undone.

Wednesday, January 26th 2011, 2:42am

by mrfixit

If you figure it is a valve problem I'd just change valve 6 and see what happens.

Tuesday, January 25th 2011, 7:11pm

by hi.todd

If your community was experiencing low water pressure and you ran the system it could be what is causing the problem.

So once the water pressure is restored it would not be an issue any more. Just an idea.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: