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The last 10 posts

Thursday, September 9th 2010, 8:42pm

by Wet_Boots

Since most pros will filter their well water supplies, they don't need any special valves. In your case, a good strainer could cost more than a PESB valve.

Thursday, September 9th 2010, 4:17pm

by steve1111 (Guest)

Thanks for the advice wet_boots. I have one more question.

Are there any other alternatives to the rainbird valve. That PESB valve is expensive !!

How about the weathermatic 21000 or the rainbird PEB ?

I am a cheapskate, nuff said.

Thursday, September 9th 2010, 5:58am

by Wet_Boots

A master valve might be the cure for valves with a slow leakage issue, although well water with particles could make a leaker of any valve. A 'scrubber' valve is the best bet for dirty water. Rainbird makes the PESB valve for that demanding application.

Wednesday, September 8th 2010, 8:41am

by steve1111 (Guest)

I am willing to install a master valve before the zone valves if this will cure the leak pass problem.

The contoller is a rainbird model number ISA408. I just downloaded the manual and a master valve can be wired.

Is this the fix I am looking for :rolleyes: .

I read a previous thread where the Hunter valve is recommended.

Tuesday, September 7th 2010, 1:24pm

by steve1111 (Guest)

No it does not have a master valve or a PVB valve before the 8 zone valves.
I have a shutoff valve (manual ball type) before the zone valves.
I have an 8 zone timer and all zones are used.

best regards

Friday, September 3rd 2010, 11:28am

by Wet_Boots

Does the system have a master valve?

Friday, September 3rd 2010, 7:02am

by steve1111 (Guest)


Took off each valve top - no debris or sand. Flushed the piework to the valves. Valve diaphrams showed "rust" film on top so I cleaned it off and rinsed in water. Reassembled. checked tightness of solenoids, I got an extra 1/8turn on 3 of them without overtigtening. Pressured up the system. Bled the valves, all together, then one by one. Checked tanked pressure. 55psi almost full pressure. Left it overnight.

Some of the valves were definately holding pressure, there was a different "feeling/sucking/pressure release" when I opened them.

Checked this morning tank pressure zero. = leak past valve (s).

If I leave pressure in tank and turn off supply before the valves, then the tank holds pressure forever. So its not the supply line to the valves, its not backflow to the pump from the tank.

Maybe the water is not clean enough ???? its frustrating to renew all the valves then have the same problem all over again. BUT thanks anyhow for the help and the replys.


Thursday, September 2nd 2010, 4:23pm

by Wet_Boots

If the water has sand in it, you will have to take steps to deal with that. Sprinkler equipment "expects" to see clean city water, for the most part, especially the zone valves.

Wednesday, September 1st 2010, 11:23am

by steve1111 (Guest)

Next step:

I will take all the tops off clean out any debris, reassemble and bleed all the valve (at the same time).Maybe this will cure the problem. I will post again when I have done this and let you know result.

So a PVB valve is not needed. Good this saves $60 and additional work. Changing all 8 valves wasn't cheap.

Thanks for the help.

Wednesday, September 1st 2010, 10:10am

by Fireguy97

Steve, have you tried to pull the new valves apart and look inside? There might be sand or some other debris inside causing the diaphragm not to seal properly. You might just need a filter.

A proper backflow prevention assembly is always recommended, but it won't do anything for a leakage problem.