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The last 7 posts

Thursday, August 19th 2010, 8:03pm

by kid-zero

To my own reply.

I replace zone 3 as I likewise replace zone 1.

My system is up and running. Lesson learn, replace the ASV (automatic solenoid value).

Life is a journey, and thank goodness there are people here to help

Thank you all. Kid.

Monday, August 16th 2010, 2:51pm

by kid-zero

I replaced the whole value. I cut the PCV piping a purchased a new value.

That was the culprit. Zone one shuts off when Zone two comes on.



Now I have a new problem. This could be related to the original?

Zone 3 runs for two minutes and shuts off. At the water pump you can hear a clicking sound as if a relay was turning on and off.

I reprogram the system (6 zones) with zone 3 running for only one minute.

The system works fine with zone 3 running for only one minute.

Do you think I have another bad value or solenod at zone 3?



Thank you, Kid.

Saturday, August 7th 2010, 8:18pm

by Central Irrigation

Go to the controller and using your multimeter, OHM out the wire valve one is attached to. Put one lead on the common and the other on the zone one wire. It should read somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 to 50 ohms depending on manufacturer of the selenoid. If you don't receive any reading, I'd check the wiring of that selenoid. Start with redoing your connections on the selenoid.

Friday, August 6th 2010, 2:34pm

by kid-zero

Ah oh!

I replace the solenod, and now zone 1 will not run at all.

All other zones are good.



Help

Kid

Thursday, August 5th 2010, 6:38pm

by kid-zero

Thank you for leading me in the right direction.

As for your question,when the controller is off, all zones shut down.



I was able to dig up the automatic sprinkler valve (ASV) and gingerly dismantle it.

I found a piece of PCV piping in the valve.

I place everything back to gether again and ran the system.

Zone 1 did not turn off as before and water build up in the ditch I made to get to the ASV.



I tested the solenod by applying 24 Vac to it (out of circuit). It would not engage.

I,m on my way to Lowes to get a new one.



Wish me luck. Any advice you have would be greatly appreciative.

Kid.

Wednesday, August 4th 2010, 8:28pm

by Central Irrigation

Does the zone stay on even when the controller is OFF? If so, it's one of two things: something is stuck in the valve preventing the diaphragm from closing completely, or you have a faulty selenoid. Purchase a new version of the exact same valve that's in the ground. I would start by opening up the valve and checking to see if there is any debris inside. Make sure not to get any other dirt, grass, or anything else inside the valve while you're working. Inspect the diaphragm and all other components for any cracks, chips, or any other deformities. Pay close attention to the order in which the valve disassembles. Most valves usually only contain a plastic diaphragm seat, diaphragm, spring, cap, and selenoid, but they must reassemble in the proper order. If anything is damaged, you have spare parts to replace with.



As a professional, I find it much easier to repair a valve than it is to replace one. Just make sure to inspect the base of the valve (the part that stays in the ground) checks out, and doesn't have any cracks or damage.



It might go without saying, but be sure to turn off the water before working on a valve.

Wednesday, August 4th 2010, 7:34pm

by kid-zero

Zone 1 constantly on

I have a RainBird ESP-6 Controller.

Zone 1, of 6 different zones stays on during full 6 cycles.

I have cross wired zone 6 with zone 1 and zone 6 did come on with cycle ones demand.

This is telling me that the controller is good.

I have inspected the solenoid in the zone 1. It looks and sounds good.

Do you think I need to replace the automatic sprinkler value?

And if so, how is that done? (I am a newbe to this trade).

Thank You

Kid.