You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 3064 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 9 posts

Thursday, July 22nd 2010, 7:33pm

by tjbris (Guest)

Problem solved

Thanks Wet_Boots and FireGuy. I replaced the guts and all is working well again. Fireguy on a side note - the first replacement valve I bought had a fracture in are correct that Orbit's quality is very suspect.

Monday, July 19th 2010, 10:03am

by Wet_Boots

Do note that you may not have an easy time obtaining matching parts for an Orbit valve. Professional suppliers laugh at the name, and the local big-box store might have a different model of Orbit valve, compared to what you already have installed.

Sunday, July 18th 2010, 11:40pm

by Fireguy97

Replace the whole valve or the "guts"?
Thanks Wet_boots.

It might be easier for you to replace the guts. If your valve is by itself in the irrigation box, replace the whole thing. If the valve is in a manifold with other valves it is going to be a lot more difficult for a non-pro to replace the entire valve.


Sunday, July 18th 2010, 4:00pm

by Wet_Boots

I wouldn't waste ten seconds trying to repair an Orbit valve - your patience might be greater.

Sunday, July 18th 2010, 3:47pm

by Tbris

Replace the whole valve or the "guts"?
Thanks Wet_boots.

Sunday, July 18th 2010, 3:25pm

by Wet_Boots

Replace the valve

Sunday, July 18th 2010, 12:13pm

by Tbris

Thanks for the response Mick.

The problem started a few days ago after the last two months and last fall was working perfectly after completely replacing valves 1,2, and 6 and rewiring that box with a new control box (not the model I just installed). The tops are secured tightly, and I don't notice any hairline cracks in valve 2 though I will check again. Again it has a new diaphragm and solenoid. I learned the hard way about cracks when I over tightened my solenoid replacement, thus the need to replace it.
I retested the wiring and this is what i found -

1. When the irrigation wire for valve 2 at the control box is disconnected, zone 2 runs when started by the control box and when all the other zones are started.
2. When the irrigation wire for valve 2 at the control box is disconnected and the wire from the solenoid is disconnected (with the common still connected), zone 2 runs when started by the control box and when all the other zones are started.
3. When the irrigation wire for valve 2 at the control box is disconnected and the wire from the solenoid is disconnected with the common also disconnected, zone 2 runs when started by the control box and when all the other zones are started.
Odd right?

The wire lines from the control box run under the house and see little outside contact. I suppose something could have chewed a wire, but certainly no digging has hurt the lines.

If you think I should still buy a new valve and replace the guts, I do it.
Thanks again for your help,

Sunday, July 18th 2010, 11:00am

by Fireguy97

To me it sounds like the zone 2 diaphragm needs looking at, or rebuilding the entire valve. If when the irrigation wire is disconnected, the valve still comes on, then I would look elsewhere. Do the heads seep water when the system is off?

When you rebuilt your valves, did you tighten all of the screws down tight? How long was it since the problem started? Did you rebuild it properly? Was the diaphragm and spring installed correctly?

I'm assuming that you purchased your parts from HD. I would get a new valve. Rebuild it by removing the top and guts only, of the old valve. Carefully inspect the old valve base that is still in the valve box. Sometimes there could be a hairline crack in the valve body base. You can feel it by running your fingernail around the top rim of the valve base (where the diaphragm was sitting). If you find a hairline crack you will have to replace the entire valve including base. This could be caused by freezing, or over-tightening the screws.

Otherwise, remove the top and guts from the new valve making careful note of how the parts go together. Install the new top and guts into the old base, effectively rebuilding your valve.


Saturday, July 17th 2010, 9:16pm

by Tbris (Guest)

Orbit 6 Valve System - Zone 2 always runs with the other zones

Zone 2 of my Orbit 6 Valve system always runs while the other 5 zones are turned on either manually or with the control box. Orbit kept assuring me it was a wiring issue and even went so far as to send me a free new model -#57896. I give them credit for their customer service. I'm almost positive I have it wired correctly and have triple checked the wires to make sure they match up with the colors at the valves. I also have two white wires in the common valve slot and one blue wire in the pump slot.
The 6 valve system comprises of 1,2, and 6 in the west box and 3,4,5 in the east box. There is an anti-siphon valve next to the west box and it is connected to the common wire and the pump wire. I have replaced valves 1,2, and 6 and replaced the solenoids last fall- and have since double checked the diaphragms and cleanliness of these valves and their wires, but have done no rewiring or checks of the east box.
I've disconnected the zone 2 control box wire and zone 2 still turns on. Also when I manually turn on the system at the anti-siphon valve, zone 2 is the only one that runs and the others will too if I loosen the solenoid. I just can't figure out how the wiring could cause this problem - BUT is it possible that lets say zone 5 in the east box has a bad solenoid or diaphragm, that it would cause this problem? Do I need to revamp all those valves as well?
I'm happy to add some pictures if needed and I hope my info was thorough enough.
Sprinklers are quickly becoming the bane of my existence. :cursing:
Thanks for any help.