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It know is sounds simple, but I have never done something like this myself. I am afraid if I try it and mess it up, I will make it worse. Like you said it takes "practice" and I don't want to practice on my own property. Thanks to all of you for help and advice.
Assuming you can find replacement valves that have the same spacing (for the vertical pipe) as the existing ones, you can do this.
If you get a contractor to do it, he's just going to do what MrFixIt is telling you to do.
All you need is either a PVC Pipe cutter (about a $15 tool that is basically a combination of a utility knife blace and ratchet pliers) for pipes upto 1-1/4", or a simple hack saw for larger pipes and basically cut the pipes just below the existing valves. (If a hack saw is used, you might need some files and/or sand paper to smooth rough edges)
Next, you just have to get the right fittings to connect the new valve to the cut pipes, connect the fittings to the valve and glue fittings to the pipe. The "gluing" process is pretty simple... you wipe the pipe with primer, let if dry, add the glue, and connect (we get get you more exact detailed instruction, it's a process that is WAY much simpler to learn than soldering copper pipe). All it takes is a touch of practice.
Just a final question, what should it cost to replace all five valves and check out the system? I got a quote for $475.00 from a licensed contractor. I live in So California if that makes a difference. Thanks.
None of your zip files worked. I can see from the two pictures posted that there's no digging required. Simply cut them off and glue new valves on. All you'll need is two male adapters for the valves unless you plan on making them taller. Then you'll need a couple of couplings.
Some of front and some of backyard values. In the front there are 2 one inch values and one 3/4 inch value and in the back there are two 34/ inch values.
Unless unions were used, when it comes to removing valves, it would seem that cutting pipe is required. After all, if the valve uses threaded connections and is installed in-line, if you try to turn the valve to loosen one threaded connection, you're going to be tightening the other. If the valves have been installed in just about any other configuration, there's no way to start unscrewing one of the two attachement points until the 1st attachement point is removed... and then you're back to the problem of if unions were not involved, you've got to cut a pipe somewhere.
The only other possible exception would be if a valve itself could be disassymboled to seperate the input side from the output side, but the few valves I've ever seen, the input/output are a part of a single body.
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