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The last 5 posts

Monday, April 26th 2010, 2:45pm

by pass1

One last thing, you may find it easier to remove the top part of the valve and check that the hole is open in the top part by holding it up to the light. It should be good as it is new. Then you will see in the body just below where the solenoid sits is the exhaust port. then you can check that portion with the wire. good luck

Monday, April 26th 2010, 2:34pm

by pass1

If you have checked it electrically and everything is good in that respect, I would ,as suggested prior look at the valve body. Since you say it works when you back off the solenoid or open the bleeder screw then I would certainly look at the water exhaust port which is part of the valve body. It is a small port hole in the solenoid area that allows the water to evacuate from the upper diaphragm chamber and exit the outlet side if the valve. This then allows the valve to open. If this hole is partially or fully blocked the valve will not open. You can check it by removing the solenoid and locating this small hole which generally leads from the solenoid location to the downstream side of the valve. You may insert a small piece of wire into the passageway to make sure it is clear. You can use a small piece of 18 guage irrigation wire with the casing striped off to do this.The wire should pass through very easily. Generally if you have a blockage , this wire will dislodge it and your back in business.

Monday, April 26th 2010, 1:00pm

by cerridwen

Without a doubt

Yes the zone comes on manually, that is when I take the solenoid off. Pretty sure I have the wiring correct. I daisy chained the common on all solenoids and single wires going to each solenoid. I thought maybe it was a power issue but why would zone 5 and 6 work with the common to 4 5 6 all on one wire nut? Baffling isn't it!!

Monday, April 26th 2010, 10:09am

by Wet_Boots

If the faulty valve has had only the 'guts' replaced, and you know beyond any doubt that the wiring and the replacement parts are good, that leaves the valve body itself as the prime suspect. Does the valve work manually, without using the controller?

Monday, April 26th 2010, 7:55am

by cerridwen

Is it the value the wiring or what

Here's the issue I have a 6 zones rain bird. I had to replace the value caps and solenoids on both zones 4 and 5. Now zone 5 works fine zone 4 nothing. I have rewired all zones and still zone 4 will not respond. Tried moving wires from other zones that are working to zone 4 and still nothing. This has me completely baffled!! If zone 5 and 6 are working with all commons wired correctly why will zone 4 not work. Also I moved working station wire to zone 4. Please help been working on this for 2 months and getting tired of it!