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The last 10 posts

Tuesday, July 28th 2009, 9:13am

by Frankpc

I've heard of hydraulic cement but never knew what it was. And yes, it would be tricky since the 8" x 1 1/2" hole is not perfectly aligned with the 1" copper pipe going through as you can imagine. However, the pipe does make it through without touching the concrete albeit it does get close on one end. But to trowel the cement into that misaligned circular crevice in 10 minutes would take some luck. However, I'll look into it. I need to find out how fine it is. I haven't sealed it yet since I haven't run water through the pipes and I wanted to do that before burial. Looking back, a 2" hole may have been a better idea.

Thanks WB.

Also heard of Leak-Seal. However, that takes a very large hole, and it seems to be for commercial use and I bet it is expensive.

Monday, July 27th 2009, 3:41pm

by Wet_Boots

The only substance I would have any faith in for below-grade sealing is Hydraulic Cement. It will not be anything you can inject into narrow spaces, unless there's some new version. It's tricky to work with, since it can begin to set before you have it all applied.

http://www.ugl.com/drylokMasonry/patching/fastPlug.php

"One common application for special hydraulic cement blends is repairing cracks and leaks. Certain types of cement contain an ingredient which causes the cement to expand as it dries, filling in leaks and holes in concrete or other structural materials. There is often a need for this type of repair work because of the fact that ordinary Portland cement shrinks slightly as it dries. Places like basements in areas with wet climates are especially prone to leaks because of this. These special blends can be hard for novices to work with, though, because once mixed, the material only remains workable for 10 to 15 minutes."

Saturday, July 25th 2009, 1:08pm

by Frankpc

WB -- I haven't sealed around the pipe yet, but I also bought some Quickrete "Gray Concrete Crack Seal" that might last longer (?). It appears as though it would flow well around the pipe. The trick is to get it in the crack whereas Great Stuff has the long slender application tube.

I don't suppose that is the stuff you used?

Friday, July 24th 2009, 4:55am

by Wet_Boots

You tell us and we'll both know. The only substance I'd ever use below grade doesn't come in a spray can.

Tuesday, July 21st 2009, 8:07pm

by Frankpc

Got the 8" long 1 1/2" hole bored through the concrete foundation wall today. Took about 20 minutes to drill through. Drill motor only got away once. Luckily no one died and no bones were broken. I learned to stand far enough away so that when it does happen, the motor doesn't whack you in the head as it slows down.

When I can again focus, I'm planning to use Great Stuff to seal the hole. The copper is about 1 1/8" OD. So that leaves 3/8" for pipe alignment and seal. I'm wondering whether Great Stuff will hold up below grade.

??

Frank

Thursday, July 16th 2009, 8:13am

by Frankpc

I did buy a bottle of some crack seal at Lowes yesterday. I haven't looked at the viscosity but, it has a small angled spout, which you cut to a desired size. I am hoping that it will seal. I figure I will put some on the pipe before I slide it in and then force more sealant in around it. Perhaps I should bore a little larger hole to be able to push a small plastic tube in there and use it on the spout. My current copper line comes in below grade. Some sort of black sealant was used around it.

thanks for the continued advice WB,

Frank

Thursday, July 16th 2009, 7:36am

by Wet_Boots

Your below-grade exit area had better be dry, or you can get water coming back through the hole. Above-grade exits don't have that problem.

Wednesday, July 15th 2009, 8:42am

by Frankpc

Thanks WB --

Situation is, my utility room is part way finished. Meaning I do have a couple of studded walls that I've insulated, sheetrocked, and painted, which I would like to leave alone. So it will be nicer to actually go out of the utility room through a concrete wall and end up under grade for just a bit.... then go right into the valve box which will be partially above grade grade. It will be awkward, but OK.

Per your advice, I'll use copper type L inside and run that outside to the manifold. I think I can do it with one piece of 1" copper. I plan to use 1" poly for the laterals in case I need more flow later on.

Thanks for the support,

Frank

Wednesday, July 15th 2009, 5:51am

by Wet_Boots

The exit hole will be above grade, and you can safely use silicone caulk to seal the hole. No sleeve, and no PVC water pipe indoors.

Tuesday, July 14th 2009, 6:12pm

by Frankpc

Running pipe through a concrete foundation

When running copper or sch 40 pipe through a bored hole in concrete for a sprinkler system, is some sort of sleeve needed to protect it?

If a portion of the pipe will be exposed outside in climates where freezing will occur, is it better to use copper or PVC sch 40?

Are these things specified in the 2006 IRC?

Thanks,

Frank

PS -- "Senior Member"?? Obviously this relates to my age as opposed to my knowledge. Or does it relate to my painfully apparent lack of knowledge as evidenced by the number of questions I have asked? (wow-- another question).