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The last 10 posts

Tuesday, May 19th 2009, 8:21am

by Wet_Boots

Since the valve linked here would match with a valve over 30 years old, you may have had some copy-cat version, instead of the real thing.

Monday, May 18th 2009, 8:29am

by WakeUpMaggy

I found a new irritrol 205 locally so guess what? The bonnet fit, nice hex screws that can use a socket, but the base is not a match. The new one has a much deeper diaphram and lower inflow rim on the base. X(
So I took the old one, scrubbed all the parts, used the new screws, the old hex solenoid and somehow got it working again. WHEW! Was going to be one long painful summer.
Ok Ok, yes I have one in my cart already. :)
Ebay is just so easy because of PayPal, but I see that the seller didn't yet accept my lowball offer, so best price is still here.
I just hope I can get those cruddy screws out one last time. It's deep in the corner, a tiny screwdriver has to blindly be jammed in tight, then a wrench used to painstakingly turn each screw. :cursing: A Sawzall is a grave temptation on that valve.
Thanks Again!
The nice folks that run this site also sell the Irritrol 205
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Irritrol-205-Series-Valves-p/205tf.htm

Tuesday, April 28th 2009, 4:53am

by WakeUpMaggy

Ok Ok, yes I have one in my cart already. :)
Ebay is just so easy because of PayPal, but I see that the seller didn't yet accept my lowball offer, so best price is still here.
I just hope I can get those cruddy screws out one last time. It's deep in the corner, a tiny screwdriver has to blindly be jammed in tight, then a wrench used to painstakingly turn each screw. :cursing: A Sawzall is a grave temptation on that valve.
Thanks Again!
The nice folks that run this site also sell the Irritrol 205
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Irritrol-205-Series-Valves-p/205tf.htm

Tuesday, April 28th 2009, 2:54am

by Wet_Boots

The nice folks that run this site also sell the Irritrol 205
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Irritrol-205-Series-Valves-p/205tf.htm

Monday, April 27th 2009, 6:53pm

by WakeUpMaggy

Super!
Getting an irritrol 205 on ebay, I hope. Ordering spares for the little Hardies, I think I'll make it through the season again.
Thanks you've been a big help. :)
Your grey valve is a Richdel R-204, or one of its descendents. Easily repaired, or just swap the guts with an Irritrol 205

Monday, April 27th 2009, 5:41pm

by Wet_Boots

Your grey valve is a Richdel R-204, or one of its descendents. Easily repaired, or just swap the guts with an Irritrol 205

Sunday, April 26th 2009, 8:32pm

by WakeUpMaggy

Hmm, I had 3/4" Hardie valves at the last house and assumed these were 1" as the water lines are 1". These are small. Perhaps Hardie never made a "small" 1" valve and that these have 3/4 adapters. Guess I won't know til I take them out. All the replacement parts I saved from the 3/4 fit these.

I FOUND THE REPAIR PARTS AT LAST FOR HARDIE, http://www.basicirrigation.com/product_info.php?products_id=1498&osCsid=dd9989045cfdcb363b641359c867eec7
So if I can just maybe replace or repair the one odd valve we're back in business for years.

My epoxy fix didn't work. The odd valve I tried to fix is grey, has 8 low quality ph screws that get stripped easily by the screwdriver. It has steel crescents under the screws and a tiny protruding flap on the diaphram. Since it has no markings I can't find the right parts for it. Has a tall flow control and a bleed screw. I can't upload pics no matter how small I make them. I know it was replaced before 2002. It also has a hex shaped inner solenoid, different from all the rest and incompatible with what I can get locally. So what could it be? Has a large spring on top of the diaphram. I'd like to just replace the bonnet, obviously, with better quality screws. I got mass gravel out of it using a cotton ball down deep.

I really don't want to do anything but fix that one valve right now so I can my garden in and worry about the rest later. Out of time. The Hardie leaks are insignificant so far. I can do the manifolds next winter, possibly. Or hire an unemployed guy who knows what he's doing. One plumbing company wanted $1000 for a four valve manifold some years back, crazy!
I assumed you already had the 3/4-inch Hardie valves ("small Hardie valves") ~ the larger sizes were never price-competitive.

Skip the slip valves for now. Threaded valves will allow you to undo a mistake. PVC unions might help you fit the manifolds in. On the outlet side, you may have more digging to do.

By the way, your first choice (Toro Ez-Flo) is basically the same thing as the Irritrol jar-top. Same manufacturer. Same repair parts.

Sunday, April 26th 2009, 6:17pm

by Wet_Boots

I assumed you already had the 3/4-inch Hardie valves ("small Hardie valves") ~ the larger sizes were never price-competitive.

Skip the slip valves for now. Threaded valves will allow you to undo a mistake. PVC unions might help you fit the manifolds in. On the outlet side, you may have more digging to do.

By the way, your first choice (Toro Ez-Flo) is basically the same thing as the Irritrol jar-top. Same manufacturer. Same repair parts.

Sunday, April 26th 2009, 10:12am

by WakeUpMaggy

Hey thanks.
I have 12 Irritrol 2400 TF in my shopping basket. Much better price than the local Rainbirds at $28 per.These are 4", the hardies were 3 1/2". Is there a better choice? Should I get slip instead? Does slip save space?

How does one attach a slip fitting valve, glue? Time to go get some parts and start playing with them. Local small town Ace Hardware is a gold mine of information. (I've even had employees offer to come to house and repack faucet parts or loan me their Dremel.)

Now because there are two zones with drip filters on them in the existing 5 zone box, how about I separate the filters to another accessible part of the water line, after valve before drippers, instead of trying to fit them in the box? I could also extend the drain to the outside using a small round box.(?)


Ok irritrol still makes the 700 series but the 1" is also large bonnet and they are expensive. I dont think it would be wise to downsize to 3/4

I measured my boxes, the lid is 14 1/2X 19 1/2 so they are bigger than standard. One box the valves are set deep and there's lots of room, the other is set shallow and the valves barely fit in that configuration.
Trying to add photos, one has leaves in it, You can get the gist.

Thanks,

Sunday, April 26th 2009, 8:20am

by Wet_Boots

Don't expect any valve to be a physical match for a 3/4-inch Hardie 700. Just excavate the valve area and fit in new manifolds. Use elbow fittings to match things up, if necessary.

Really advanced students can fit as many as a dozen standard 1-inch valves in a jumbo box, but beginners should not try to get too creative.