You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 3373 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 2 posts

Thursday, March 26th 2009, 7:47am

by Wet_Boots

If the system is operating with 'just enough' pressure, adding zone valves can subtract enough pressure to render the system non-functional. Pond water is assumed to be 'dirty' with valve clogging particles. A good strainer can protect valves, or you can spend extra for 'dirty water' valves like Rainbird PESB valves.

Wednesday, March 25th 2009, 10:06am

by Confused (Guest)

What to use

I have a "home made" inground sprinker system. I pump water from a
backyard pond using a 1hp Wayne pump. The lines a one inch poly pipe.
I have 3 zones. Currently I manually open and close the valves. I want
to change this to an automatic system controlled by a timer. What do
you recommend for valves and a timer