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The last 6 posts

Friday, May 13th 2005, 3:38am

by drpete3

How many valves are we talking about? I say just dig up the wole thing and start over. In the end you ll be happy you did.

Friday, May 13th 2005, 12:18am

by Wet_Boots

What he said. Unless there is a real problem getting more of the older valves (what's the make and model) you should be able to rebuild them. If you start over with new valves, then you dig up the entire box. The choice is yours, and as always, your mileage may vary.

There are now valves being made with unions on the inlet and outlet, to allow 'drop-in' valve replacement. As long as a valve is repairable, however, there isn't much need for the unions.

Thursday, May 12th 2005, 6:49pm

by bobw

Depending on the make/model of the valves, they may still be made. If you can still buy new valves, buy them and just replace everything except the bodies that are already installed. Unfortunately, a lot of systems get installed with the manifolds all glued up and replacement is a heck of a job. Your other option is to bite the bullet and rip it all apart and build new manifolds using fittings that can be screwed and unscrewed (i.e. Dura) so that you never have to deal with the issue again.

Thursday, May 12th 2005, 5:16pm

by mgerity

Yeah, I considered it, but when you price the solenoids (rusted, splitting) and the diaphragms, it's cheaper to replace the whole thing, plus I get better reliability, etc. These things are really old, so I'd rather just start over, but I find it hard to believe these things are installed in such a way as to make replacement so difficult.

Thursday, May 12th 2005, 4:22pm

by Wet_Boots

Consider repairing the valves.

Thursday, May 12th 2005, 12:50pm

by mgerity

How to replace a valve

Okay, I'm digging away to clear my valves to replace them, and I've come across a problem. The valves are all female threaded on both sides, but there is no sleeve or slip collar that will allow me to unscrew the valves. The incoming and outgoing pipes are all cemented to the threaded coupling and to the T. It looks like the only way to get it out is to cut the pipe somewhere. If I do that, then how do I install the new valve--there isn't much room in the box to work with. The T's are all cemented, so I can't replace any parts without ruining what's in there. Those cemented fittings are really blocking every move I can think of. How do I get around this?